Wave Knowledge
- Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better. A big part of my success has been wave knowledge.
Herbie Fletcher Photo Credit: Art Brewer
Enduring surf slang expression meaning excited, pleased, happy, thrilled.
- Surf Dictionary
Life has been a rocky road at the rental house - aka Casa Chupacabra - en Encinitas these days… to say the least. The ‘Land Lord’ has not been feeling well.
The things were are doing > sacrifices > to lower costs to build our capital stack!
Entrepreneurial activity is best suited when contingency planning helps ensure a consistent work environment.
As we continue to prepare for the coming unpleasantness the goal is to embrace uncertainty or volatility. Watermen adapt to Ocean swells from from wind storms far away and it’s our job to harness this energy.
Don’t fight forces > Use Them… R.B.F.
In 2013 > 2015 the unthinkable took place. Turned my back on the surf.
Today, despite potential fears of eviction or finding a home base the most important part of the process was getting a decent water time session.
Prep for riding the carbon Infinity BlurrV2 to the surf in the new rack system is incredibly efficient also offering a lower body workout and contemplation.
Winds this morning stayed offshore with small sets breaking outside in unpredictable intervals over D Street in Encinitas. Not good for a short boarder seeking compressed power… We adapt to the conditions given. Opportunity to catch a few > Turned into a fairly fun session just south of the Moonlight Beach Lifeguard station tower. Clean cold water, upper body workout and rights & lefts…
Peak waves can be assessed from a stand up and experience. One of the last waves the decision to go right with my back to the wave was a last second decision based upon the set up of the face…. Left closing down and right provided a more rideable section. It’s been a 22 year ride in California since learning to surf a Christianson fun shape… or my B L 7’6” thruster at Tamarack Street Carlsbad. Ready for the right…
The right on this day opened up and as I came down the line there was a young girl on a pink board with both arms up providing stoke …. Made sure to do my best Herbie Fletcher pose to the longboard Gods… Pulled out of the wave before the collapse / fold over. We both laughed.
We adore an institution, and do not see that it is founded on a thought which we have. But real action is in silent moments. - Ralph Waldo Emerson
Gratitude - Stoke. Young girl was out there learning with her father on a longboard.
Core workouts in the Wild > Essential Balance.
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